Showing posts with label training. Show all posts
Showing posts with label training. Show all posts

A Journey Out of Fear


Horse Personalities: The Fearful Horse

Renee Swanepoel NDip Equine Studies, SANEF Level 1

 

Human personalities are a well-researched and well-known fact. We are all born with our own distinct personality and as we grow our environment causes us to react and respond to life in a way that reflects back to that personality.  Horses are very much the same and there are distinct personality types that can be observed with horses and how they react to their environment. The way in which a horse interacts with us and responds to his training can be a direct result of his personality and when working with any horse it can be valuable to first determine what that personality may be as a predicting factor in how he must be handled and worked and what can be expected along the way. It is also worth knowing your own personality type since that will also have a huge impact on the way you relate to your horse and his training.

 

I have had exposure to many types of personality when it comes to horses and the most common ones would certainly be the more extrovert type, the pleasers and the stubborn personalities. They fit my own personality well as does mine the discipline of Dressage which I love. Before this little stallion came into my life I had not had too much exposure to the fearful horse and had never had to reckon with raw fear as an obstacle to physical and mental training. Before we look at the fearful horse in detail, let us take a broad look at some of the theories of both human and horse personality.

 

There are a number of different opinions about the way in which horse and human personalities can be described. J. Warren Evans writes in his textbook, Horses: A Guide to Selection, Care and Employment, that there are six basic temperament types. He defines them as quiet, interested, nervous, extremely nervous, stubborn and treacherous. Yvonne Barteau, writing in the popular Dressage magazine, Dressage Today, lists the kinds of personality as four basic, clearly discernable personality groupings, which she lists as social, fearful, aloof and challenging. Britta Schoffmann, in her book, Dressage Training Customized, discusses 6 natural personality types when relating to training, as well as three “rider made” types of horse where training and the act of nurture over nature has had an influence on the horse’s reactions to his environment and training in terms of his personality.

 

 She lists the types of horse as follows:

 

·        The Overreactive Horse

·        The Slow, Stolid  Horse

·        The Hot horse

·        The Prankster

·        The Overachiever

·        The Sensitive Horse

 

She then lists the rider made types as:

 

·        The Fearful Horse

·        The Lazy Horse

·        The Resistant Horse

 

The young horse is mentioned as a special case on its own.

 

I particularly enjoy Britta’s views and descriptions of the personality types and would recommend this book to anyone who is interested in making sure that they are taking the horse’s personality and conformation into account when tailoring a training program.

 

Let us take a look at the information we have at hand about the fearful horse.

 

Britta categorises the fearful horse into two types – those that are born fearful, and those that are made fearful by poor interaction with humans. Horses are prey animals, so fear is part of their inherent nature, although years of selective breeding have lessened the need for flight. When a horse that has a natural tendency is bullied or that fear is reinforced by human handlers, it can spiral completely out of control. The most noticeable thing about these horses is that they lack self-confidence. When training and interacting with this type of horse, it is the first thing you should notice. They will never suppose that they can do anything and if they can be coaxed to try anything, their initial response is “oh dear, was that wrong, oh no, please don’t punish me!” before they have even given you a chance to say, well done! When they do make a mistake they will often retreat mentally and will not try again or be persuaded that it is ok to make a mistake. The sad fact with these horses is that many of them are really very talented individuals who could go far under the right circumstances but are often hastily passed along in a competitive situation simply because in the competition world, time equals money and there is no time to be spent coaxing a fearful horse out of his behaviour and instilling confidence. Patience is the number one key when working with these horses because training is a slow and painstaking process, but the end result will always be well worth the struggle. These horses will often have ‘triggers’ that will cause the horse to retreat into the panic, fearful state and part of the training is to introduce the horse sympathetically and careful to the triggers and try to lessen the fear response. The fear response will show in two different ways, I have found. The horse will either have an immediate outward response that will be sudden, violent and he will go into flight mode at once; or; he will go into an inward flight mode – when riding you will notice that suddenly the horse is not ’with you’ anymore and after a while suddenly “explodes” as he comes back to you. When they go into that internal fleeing mode, work is almost impossible because they will not respond to you at all and will not absorb anything you are trying to teach them. They will tend to freeze up until they cannot bear it anymore and will then only explode suddenly to escape the situation they see as threatening. They can be hard to handle from the ground and even worse to ride.

 

My own experience with the fearful horse began in May this year when I was introduced to LCT; a beautiful little stallion hiding away in the corner of his stable. He would not let you touch him if he could help it at all and if you had to touch him he would quite literally freeze up and cringe and as soon as he could would move away and go hide in the corner again. For two months he did not put his head over the stable door and he would not take food of any kind from a human hand. Or even a bucket in a human hand for that matter. What I did not know about him then was that he is one of the foremost breeding stallions of his breed in our country and that his children are talented Dressage and Showjumping stars. In his younger days he was one of the top in-hand show stallions in his class and in ridden classes on a good day was unbeatable. The breeding farm, in fact, via his progeny have won Stud of the Year for 2012 just a few weeks ago. This boy is talented. But ruined. He had been turned out to pasture and had not been ridden for at least 5 years prior to us working with him because he was deemed dangerous and people were of the firm opinion that a woman would never be able to handle or ride him.

 

The first stumbling block I faced when trying to ride him was that he would not actually let you get on him! As soon as he realised you were going to get on him, from a mounting block, leg up, or any other creative method I devised to get onto him, he would shoot forward and if you did get a foot in the stirrup, he would bunny hop off with you until you came off and then you would repeat… Once on, he would go into a tense, almost saddler like way of moving – up in front, legs pounding away and running for dear life. He had no idea of contact, no brakes and even a pat on the neck would give him such a startle that he would jump up and start to shake. He would also sweat. Boy, could he sweat. The sweat would run off him, making puddles around his feet if you stood still on concrete for long enough. Even now, I know when he is stressed about anything because he will immediately break into a terrible sweat. A crop of any kind is not an option with this horse – not when riding him or from the ground, which is complicated by the fact that because he is not working in self carriage yet, he needs to be reminded that his hind end must be quicker and to keep moving forward. The entire process of being ridden he found traumatic and at times completely unbearable.

 

From the ground he was never unkind or mean, just nervous and blocked off to any interaction with humans. That was an important clue for me – the absence of any mean or violent behaviour. A horse that is this fearful but does not become violent towards his human handler is a horse that can be rehabilitated. When the horse is expressing fear in a violent or dangerous way, chances of rehabilitation become much less and those kinds of horses have to be handled by professionals only. To start with, I had to get him used to me without causing too much distress so it quite literally began with me sitting in his stable reading magazines and not doing anything. The first thing you want to do with these horses is spark some kind of curiosity. Because they are so blocked off, they will not notice you or want to interact with you, but if you persist, they will come to you and show even just a tiny spark of interest and that is where your journey will begin. I believe greatly in join-up, or, lock-on as it is sometimes called, so it is something I will do right at the start of the training process. His reaction to this was very interesting because initially, he was in flight mode – wanting to escape me and not anything else. It took quite a few tries of go and come but eventually he gave the clues – mouth softening, frame softening and eventually lock on. With these guys often the clues are very subtle – if they follow you around they will do so from a slight distance and if you turn towards them again they will take off into flight mode again easily, so it is important to recognise when they are joining up as it is not often as pronounced as with other horses although it is there. If you wait for complete ‘puppy dog mode’ you may miss it and end up going on for hours!

 

Touch is a very important part of the healing process with any horse that is fearful and has a past. When a horse has been made fearful through touch – ie being hit, roughly handled and so forth – you will need to use touch to gain trust. This little guy would cringe when you laid a hand on him, so starting with just putting my hand on his shoulder and keeping it there for a while until I saw signs of relaxation, gentle grooming and always always touch. When riding him I will still put a hand on his shoulder or wither in front of me when I feel him tense up and just keep it there until I feel him come back to me. It has become my way of trying to prevent him from ‘disappearing’ under me when he gets worried. Never a pat, just a touch or scratch. I am by no means a new-agey, touchy feely rider or person, however I really did find this to be of great help to him in the beginning. Just the act of quiet touch at all times.

 

Using food as a reward and tool, which I have always used with great success proved to be a problem at first, since he would absolutely not take anything from a human hand. It presented a challenge in the beginning because there was no reward that I could employ that would help him understand he was doing a good job – a pat or rub was stressful, an enthusiastic ‘good boy’ was not something understood or liked, food was not tolerated. At first I tried to use backing off as a reward – retreat a little and back down. That was not always practical though – when lunging or riding he was too stressed to notice. I will never forget the day he took a treat from me for the first time – I will eternally be grateful to Kieffer for making their divine Apple treats, because that was the first thing he showed any interest in. Today, he will sell his soul and probably do back flips for a Kieffer cookie! He can smell then a mile away! It was a case of try and try and try. Finally, he noticed it, had a taste and for the first time his focus was on me. It was breakthrough. He now is making up for 10 years of lost treats and will eat carrots with great gusto! Anything new is still treated with suspicion, but the Kieffer treat and carrot is always a winner.

 

Another unusual trait with this little guy that was surprising to me was his unusual sensitivity to anything. If, for example, you change a piece of tack, let’s say using bandages one day and boots the next, he would be completely out of his comfort zone. The first thing that you notice is the sweating – then it will take a good 20 min to find his focus again. Changing arenas would do the same thing. At first I tried to keep everything simple and make no changes but as his trust grew, I made a point of changing just one thing every time – a different set of boots, a different arena, riding with music, having people stand next to the arena (his absolute fear) and so forth. We go on plenty of outrides and I let him have some choice about what he does at times – it took him a while to discover the joys of a good gallop, but now he that he has, boy oh boy!

 

The Dressage training is a slow process – we have had to start from scratch and drill the basics – relaxation, straightness and contact which are so vital, are things he really struggles with. He has a very difficult mouth – the scars around it tell a story as well. We have tried a few bits but he was very resistant to them all – I eventually after thought decided that what he fearful of was pressure on his tongue and so tried a Myler Comfort snaffle on him that has a greatly reduced amount of tongue pressure. This was another breakthrough in his education and he was although not perfect, much happier in that combination (we use a comfort bridle as well) and work is progressing slowly but steadily.

I introduced some jumping as well, because it was something he had never done before, as well being something that would ask him to make decisions and choices – something he has never been allowed to do. He absolutely loves it – it gives him the freedom to make his own choices (all of which have been good ones! ) and to have fun, let his hair down so to speak. We only jump very small things as I want him to keep gainaing more and more confidence and if he finds an exercise too easy, I can make it more complicated without actually having to raise fences beyond 60 or 70 cm. When outside, we jump logs and ditches and go through puddles – all targeted at trying to expand his educatina dn give him confidence.


One important thing that you should know about working with the fearful horse is that when they start to gain more confidence, they will begin to test boundries. That is also partly because the rider will tend to coddle the horse a little too. Always be firm and reasonable. Boundries are what give confidence. By feeling sorry for them and letting them test and get away with things you begin a see-saw kind of test, punish, retreat, cycle which is not productive at all. My rules apply – stand still for me to get on (that was a lot of work but now he knows!), when we work, we work, no looking for girlfriends while we work, when outside, we go as fast as I say, when I say and where I say. There is no need for beating or shouting – with him a firm no will do the trick or just positive riding and keeping his mind focussed. Because he is so scared of any crop or stick and even a baseball cap scares him, I devised a clever way of reinforcing without sending him into a fear spiral. I have taken the bottom strap of a flash noseband and have worked it through the D-Ring on my saddle. In that way it is not in my hand, he doesn’t notice it and it holds no stressor for him, but if he is in a place where he needs a bit of backup to the leg or he wants to go out the gate or anything, I just take the strap and tap him once with it, let it go and he gets the message without the need for a crop. It has worked really well as an alternative reinforcer. With this I don’t mean to say that everyone needs straps – what I do want to illustrate is that when working with any horse, you have to think outside the box and really try to understand what is going on in their heads and how you can help them. Sometimes unconventional methods can be of great value!

 

We still have a very long way to go and it will be years before he is truly happy in his work but the journey thus far has been fantastic and every little scrap of progress, no matter how small, is a gem that I value highly. The hot fearful horse is a huge challenge, but if you can work miracles, it will be worth every bit of hard work you put in.

 

 

 

 

Training Woes...

Or, rather, a little observation from my side!

As a part of my horsey life, teaching and showing and training my horses and those of clients, I get to sit on many horses to get a feel of what they are doing. I am constantly amazed at the difference in what the rider tells you and what the horse tells you when you sit on it. Not that the riders tell you all good or all bad things mind you - sometimes they can be quite complimentary about their long suffering steeds. Once you get on, however, the story can change quite a bit. This tells me a lot about FEEL. That elusive gift that all good riders possess and that all riders strive to develop. Being able to sit on a horse and just feel what it is doing is a gift that I find leads me to developing a training schedule for the horse that will not only yield positive results, but usually they come quite quickly.

One of the most common issues I deal with on most horses I ride is educating the shoulder. When you control the shoulder, the rest follows. Not very easy to do! The horse needs to learn to lift the shoulder so that he can bend correctly, take a bit of weight through the back onto the hindquarter and stay in control of his body. The bigger, short coupled horses find control of the shoulder a lot easier to develop than their more lanky cousins. Where they often struggle is in relaxation and softness through the body however they more than make up for it because once the shoulder is controlled, they find long and low quite easy which will supple and soften them in no time at all. The longer coupled and tall horses will often be more supple but not as strong, so they can really struggle with the strength that is required to lift the shoulder. They will often fall over themselves through corners or lose balance in transitions. one of the important factors when it comes to teaching the horse to use his shoulder is by using the outside rein. Too many riders pull their horses around on the inside rein not realising that bend needs to be maintained with the outside rein first. as soon as the horse is pulled onto the inside rein, it falls onto the inside shoulder, losing his center of balance and the purpose and use of the bend is lost.

Long and low work is vital in the development and training of any horse. I use it daily to relax, stretch and supple the horse. When you advance in your horse's training, work in long and low at different paces and through transitions is a fantastic way of progressing your training. the big issue I see with riders in long and low is that they simply throw the reins at the horse, who will typically 'plank out' his neck and run along on the forehand. That is not true long and low work! The horse should lift the shoulder up, extend his neck over and out to the front and most importantly, stays on the contact throughout. you can ride simple lead changes in long and low, for example, because the horse is still carrying hihimself and is still on your contact. The horse should follow the contact when you ask - but should still stay between your hand and leg. I do walk trot halt transitions through long and low, canters with simple changes and so forth. The most advanced work in long and low that is quite a powerful tool but is very hard work is long and low over cavaletti. The effort of lifting the legs combined with stretching over the back and neck is monumental.

The second issue I often encounter with many horses is that they are never allowed to move! Many training hurdles people encounter is that the horse seems stubborn, won't move off the leg or remains stiff. This is mostly because the horse has never been allowed to actually go forwards. I find this true for many of the really big horses - the really wide ones - the ones that really can actually move! When you sit on a horse in canter, come down the long side and say, "Ok! Now you can go!" this horse will go "huh?" and stay shuffling along. The horse is not dead to the leg (ok, yes they are in a way i guess!) they are dead in the HEAD! These horses need get out - long rides out where they are allowed to just move and have canters out and just have fun. At some point they will suddenly realise that there is something more fun than a shuffle down the long side of the arena. These horses have often been worked to death in the arena and have no more inclination to even try to enjoy their work. Working outside is also a great opportunity to add litttle training exercises like lateral work, halts, transitions etc which the horse will find playful and will benefit from. The big training problem with these horses is that the rider is usually a bit nervous and wil often try to solve the problem with even more schooling inside which just makes the problem worse. Another thing that i do with my horses is to take them out on non-show excursions. going out on a fun adventure with no pressure to behave! All my horses get to go out to training eventing courses to have a gallop, take some small jumps and just have a chance to pig around. We travel to outride venues, go on hunts and keep them busy with all sorts of excursions. These trips keep things fresh, keep them forward thinking and really develop rider horse relationship.

Clients are often surprised when I tell them that riding should not be hard work. Sure, there is some work involved, but if you are finishing a 30 min ride sweating, huffing and puffing, and your horse has barely broken a sweat, something is wrong! The less you do with your body, the more responsive your horse will get and the bigger pleasure he will be to ride!

So if you are a bit stuck with your horse, or he is just not progressing - give these things a mull over and maybe you will find something you can do to get your training on track again!

Retraining the Racehorse Part 2


Retraining the Racehorse – PART 2

Schooling Your Racehorse…

Renee Swanepoel
N Dip Equine Studies
SANEF Level 1


Your new arrival is settling well into his new home, gaining weight nicely and the time has come to start the next section of his education – riding and educating him for his new role in life.

It is very important that before your Thoroughbred is started on a new schooling and exercise regime, that his health is good and he is pain free, that he is gaining weight and that you have had his teeth seen to by a specialist. I have yet to see a horse that has not benefitted by having a specialist work on their teeth! If costs allow, it is also a good idea to have your horse seen to by a qualified Equine Physiotherapist. A horse off the track often has some kind of muscle injury or strain which could put quite a damper on any schooling process! Before the training commences, it is always a great idea to get the small niggles out of the way first. The Physio will also be able to show you how to do a number of stretches with your new horse which will not only be of benefit under saddle, but will also be a super way to get physical and bond with your new horse right away!

When planning my training program with any new horse, I like to use the following guidelines:

You will note that the foundation of the training pyramid is a mental one. The levels are progressions – so you would probably find it harder to train the physical aspects of the horse if the mental aspect has not been dealt with. If you approach the reschooling of your new Thoroughbred off the track in this way, it makes it much easier for you to reach the ultimate goal – a well-schooled, obedient horse that performs at the top of his chosen discipline. The tools I use to achieve my goals are listed in the blocks, but really, you could include any method that you know works to achieve that goal. I have listed mine.



Each level has its own progression too, as will be discussed later. Sure, you could train the heck out of the horse physically and with a beating or two, take a shortcut to the top, but in the end you will not have what you started out to achieve – a SAFE, pleasurable ride. You will end up with a horse that requires force to ride it and is probably fearful and distrusts you. This applies to the schooling of any horse.

Not all horses are the same – some are very tense, very unwilling and can take a lot of know-how to get going. Some have physical problems that they have picked up on the track and can take very specialized physical training before they come into their full potential. Others are loveable puppy dogs that have no problem trusting and will do anything to gain your approval. If the horse is secure in one area, move on to the next!

I should also state that training any horse is a great responsibility and that a beginner rider on a beginner horse is a bit like the blind leading the blind – it may go well for a while but you will eventually hit that wall! Retraining racehorses is something that I would not recommend to anyone who does not have some kind of experience in TRAINING horses – being a good rider does not make you a good trainer! Never be afraid to ask for help and get guidance and know when to hand your horse over to a professional who knows what they are doing. You may just be saving your own life!




1. MENTAL TRAINING (Alter the Adrenaline Response)

As mentioned in Part One, the key to understanding your Thoroughbred off the track is to remember how his brain has been wired. Racing is an Adrenaline response.


One of the phrases that is often bandied about when discussing the animal kingdom is the ‘fight or flight’ response. When faced with danger, the two main options open to any living being are fighting (when you perceive the enemy to be weaker than you, or when defending your cubs or herd) or running away (when your enemy is perceived as being stronger than you or you have the advantage of speed). When faced with a perceived ‘threat’, the body undergoes physical and hormonal changes to enable the desired reaction.

When the brain interprets a scenario as a threat, it causes various chemicals to be released in the body, such as adrenaline and other stress hormones, as well as endorphins. These chemicals have the following effects on the body:
- Increased heart rate and respiratory rate (this supplies more oxygen carrying blood to the muscles and speeds up the removal of waste products from the muscles enabling physical exertion)
- Increased levels of blood sugar (this allows an increased and rapid energy use and increases metabolism for emergency actions)
- Increase of red blood cells in the blood as well as a general thickening of the blood (this increases the oxygen carrying capacity of blood, as well as an increase in platelets to enable clotting and white cells to protect from infection)
- Blood supply is increased to the heart and peripheral muscle groups and to the motor and basic function areas of the brain. Less blood moves to the digestive system, non-essential pats of the brain.
- Adrenaline causes a sharpening of the senses – pupils dilate, hearing is sharpened, etc.
- Endorphins are released as natural pain killers and supply an instant defence against pain.

The Thoroughbred has evolved over centuries to respond to the race day and more specifically the starter’s bell and running in a group with a surge of adrenaline that elicits a flight response. The horses with the best response to this adrenaline rush were often champions and were selectively bred for this trait. (whether knowingly or unknowingly) This is why they have earned the reputation of being ‘difficult, spooky and flighty’ by some people – they really are only reacting in the way they have been selectively bred and in the way they have been trained to in their formative years!

An important thing to remember is that when the horse is in this state of adrenaline response, the small ‘learning’ part of the brain shuts down and the body merely reacts. In order to help your horse learn, and for him to be receptive to you and your training, he needs to learn to override his inbred ‘flight’ response and not react with bursts of adrenaline.

There are a few ways in which a horse off the track can be helped to move away from the ‘react by adrenaline’ response and into a more relaxed, non-threat state. Each horse is different and while one method may work well for one, it may not work well for another.

Traditionally, horses off the track are turned out for a period of a few months in order to settle down, gain weight and detox. Why this works for some horses is because it removes them from their stressful, adrenaline pumped environment into a completely new one which is slower in pace, where they have the opportunity to interact with other horses and revert to a more ‘natural’ state. A period of at least 3 months is often recommended. Once the horses are relaxed, have gained weight and seem more at ease, they are then started on a training program. This method has its benefits and also its downfalls, depending on the individual’s unique situation. Firstly, in a setup where horses are being purchased cheaply off the track, schooled and resold, there is often neither the time nor the space to turn the horses out for such a prolonged period. Time is money – the horses need to recuperate and get sold as quickly as possible in order for the dealer to make any money.

Also, some horses do not adapt well to the sudden slowing down of pace and can even become depressed by the lack of stimulation and excitement. Perhaps this is also a type of ‘withdrawal’ symptom from the lack of adrenaline stimulation – almost like the adrenaline junkie who gets locked up in a room for months and is told to entertain himself! These types of horses do better with a bit more stimulation and a bit less ‘holiday’. Often these horses will refuse to eat, spend all day running up and down the fence and may even show some type of stereotypy like weaving, windsucking, crib biting and pawing. They struggle to gain weight and seem restless. Creativity is called for here, and games should be invented as well as ways of keeping the horse busy and stimulated!

Herbal remedies can be of use to calm the horse and help him get over the excitement phase after leaving the track. Mixes containing chamomile, Vervain herb, Valerian Root, Hops flowers, Passiflora, rosehips, dandelion and skullcap can be of great use. Bach Flower remedies are also of great use when dealing with stress and anxiety. Other products known to assist the horse in winding down include the B Vitamins and Magnesuim.

Lock on (also called join up) is a wonderful way of helping the horse understand that the trainer is to be trusted and that the horse can take his cue from the trainer. There are a number of very good books and websites explaining this principle.

In order for the horse to override his flight response, he will often take cue from the dominant horses in the herd, mostly the alpha individual. If the trainer can take the role of alpha leader, the horse will learn to take his cues from the trainer and this will help overcome the confusion/fear/adrenaline rush that may otherwise take place. Desesitization is a way of doing this. There are many ways in which the horse can be desesitized, but the main idea is to put the horse in a situation where it brings him close to the flight response and then work then through it.

A feed bag is usually a good way of doing this. The trainer remains ultra patient and ultra calm and asks the horse to approach the object of his fear, one very small step at a time. If the horse does so, he is rewarded by ending the session or taking a walk away from the scary object. Once the horse can be enticed to face the scary object head on and he comes to no harm, and there are no tigers that jump out and eat him up, you will see signs such as licking the lips, chewing, lowering the head and blowing out. (We call that ‘letting out the butterflies’!) This is the point where the horse is relaxed and submissive. Things that can be done are stepping onto feed bags, rubbing the body all over with feed bags, stepping up to quivering bushes, standing with feet in water, approaching scary objects like umbrellas, balloons, noises and so on. Use your creativity and come up with different tests for your horse and soon you will notice that he starts enjoying it as much as you do.

Be very careful when doing this exercise that you do not get to the point where the horse is operating under the adrenaline response – the typical Thoroughbred ‘freak-out’. You need to back down before he gets to that point. Once you are in the adrenaline response, the horse will not respond to any cues, will not ‘listen to reason’ and will only be looking for an escape route as quickly as possible. If this does happen, take him right away from the exercise and let him walk around, calm down, do something familiar to him, and only when he is calm again, go back to the exercise.

This exercise takes us to the next level of our training scale – the formation of trust between the horse and trainer.




2. RELATIONSHIP TRAINING (Establish the Trainer as an Ally)

As mentioned before, the trainer’s relationship with the horse is vital when helping him override the fight or flight instinct. Too many people misunderstand their role in the relationship with the horses in their care and try to become the horse’s ‘mother’ rather than the alpha leader and the person setting boundaries for the horses. To many people the relationship they have with their horses is likened to a Hollywood movie – feed him up with treats and ride off into the sunset! The reality is that this type of relationship can become fraught with problems and can be counter-productive to training. I am not in any way saying that treats are not allowed or are not important, they are. What I am saying is that too often horses become confused because their trainers and riders make the horse believe that they are only there to provide food and treats and the horse is left with the impression that the human is in fact the submissive partner while they are the alpha leader. Once the rider enters the arena, a power struggle ensues because now the horse does not want to take cues from the rider, and why should he, being the alpha leader!

Basic groundwork exercises form the foundation of my training program. Exercises in hand can be used to teach commands, understand cues that will be used later under saddle and that establish the trainer as the alpha leader. Horses should be taught to walk correctly next to the trainer, shoulder to shoulder, halt even though the trainer keeps walking, stand even though nobody is holding him and trot, rein back and yield to pressure from the ‘legs’ (in other words, move away from pressure applied to the sides). This is done by reward and repetition and horses are very receptive to this type of training. Another groundwork exercise which seems very insignificant, but has huge implications for the horse is to ask for halt, and then proceed to lift and hold up each leg. In the wild, a horse on three legs is a dead horse! By allowing you to lift each leg the horse shows you that he trusts your leadership and is confident that you will protect him. Racehorses can be notoriously difficult from the ground, mostly because they have never been taught to lead well, stand quietly and so forth, as well as not having confidence in their trainers. You will need to spend time teaching them to walk calmly, not barge past you in the stable and out the door, stand quietly and so forth.

The key to success in training is patience and consistency. You have to be consistent 100% of the time. If your horse is allowed to do something on one day but not the next, you confuse him and break his trust in you. One loss of patience during a sensitive moment in the training process will mean that you will have to work ten times as hard to regain it.

Obstacle courses done in hand are a super way of building trust was well as teaching the horse to become more aware of where his feet are. Remember, the racehorse has not developed his sense of proprioception and has no idea of where his feet and body are in space. He is used to running on flat ground in a straight(ish) line. These can include walking over poles, raised and on the ground, weaving in and out of cones or barrels, jumping over a small crate or stand in water. Anything you can think of that will help him think about where his feet are.

A short word on grooming your new horse. When you get your Thoroughbred, he may not like being groomed very much and may even want to bite or strike you if you do. The first thing you should know is that he has an extremely thin and sensitive skin and is probably not covered by much of a fat layer to protect his bony bits underneath. He also probably wasn’t very sensitively handled in his days as a racehorse. Firstly, throw away all those hard bristled brushes and combs and invest in the softest brush you can find. Add to that a sheepskin mitt and you are now better equipped to groom your ticklish horse! Try to find a very soft, squishy rubber comb to act as a curry comb. Start him off gently and stick to areas he does not mind as such. Slowly progress to the rest of his body and if you do it properly, in no time at all he will enjoy the process. Be aware that your groom also knows what to do and does not ruin your good work with the first brush! If he does try to bite or kick, do not shout or slap him. Turn him around in the stable and ask him to stand again. In that way you are in control and emphasizing your dominance. (Although sometimes a well timed slap does make you feel much better!) By making a fuss, you are feeding his nerves and pushing him closer to the adrenaline takeover – he thinks ‘if she is shouting and going crazy, there must be some threat around here somewhere!’

Finally, we get to the last and most exciting part – schooling your horse under saddle!

(More great groundwork training methods to try include Parelli Horsemanship and Clicker Training)



3. PHYSICAL TRAINING (The Part Where He Learns to Carry You!)

There are so many theories and methods when it comes to schooling horses under saddle, I would need a book to explain even half of them, but I am going to focus on a few of the areas of schooling that are important to the horse off the track. Summarized, the problem areas you are likely to encounter include the following:

- Won’t stand still for the rider to mount and may even rear up if restrained
- No idea of any aids such as hands, legs, seat, voice
- No brakes – no idea of what ‘stop’ means
- Poor balance and even worse suppleness – they are very ‘one-sided’
- A hollow, upside-down musculature that makes working correctly impossible
- No idea of legs hanging next to the sides – may even panic at the feel
- Panic attacks when confused – including standing in one spot and refusing to move

The first issue you will encounter when riding your new horse is that he probably won’t stand still when you mount. This is because on the track, horses keep walking or trotting and jockeys or grooms are given a leg up as they go. You will need to teach your new horse to stand still when you mount. I would recommend that for the first couple of riding sessions you have someone at the horse’s head asking him to stand and that you use a mounting block. If you have done your groundwork properly, your horse will understand the ‘stand’ command, which you will give every time you ask him to stand still when you mount. Be very aware of your own body when you mount (as you always should) so that you do not dig him in the sides, pull on his mouth or bang down on his back, as you will make it unpleasant and reinforce his belief that standing still just is not any fun at all! Once you are in the saddle, keep him standing for a little while longer. He will probably want to rush off at once – what he has been taught to do – and by asking him to stand just a little longer, you are reinforcing the idea of standing still. Let your handler do the stopping. If the horse wants to move off, don’t yank up on the reins and pull him in the mouth to bring him to a halt (as I so often see) – he doesn’t understand that. Leave his mouth, sit still and give your ‘stand’ command again while your handler places a hand over his nose, applying a little pressure and one on his chest to reinforce the stop. When he stops, reward him with a gentle rub, (don’t slap!) have him stand a moment longer and then ask for the walk. By simply reinforcing this with every session, he will quickly understand what is expected. Be very aware whenever you are working with your new horse – he may very well rear up if he is restrained, which is normal on the track!

Your new horse has no idea of aids. He has been taught that ‘forward means go’ – remember that. It is too common to see a novice rider on a novice TB, when the horse suddenly goes faster, the rider instinctively leans forward and of course to the horse this means ‘go faster’ so he does… and the rider panics even more and ends up around the neck… and the horse panics even more… and so on! This is where proper groundwork is essential! If you don’t build a solid foundation with groundwork (which was discussed before and also includes lunging and long reining) you are setting yourself up for a fight, possible injury and many months of frustration! Do not underestimate the value of the basics! Too often riders want to run before they can walk. Your work begins with teaching the voice aids from the ground, progressing to lunge work and finally long reining. Only after I am happy with this work do I even consider getting on the horse’s back. I do not regard him as safe to ride until then.

Lunging correctly is a skill that every good trainer should master. If your horse cannot carry himself correctly on the lunge, there is no way he can carry you on his back and work correctly! Lunging a horse is not about chasing him in a circle at the trot for 20 minutes – it is much more than that. This is where he must master transitions, lengthening and shortening his frame and develop the correct musculature. Your workout on the lunge should include walk, trot, lengthening the stride and coming back to the working pace, halt, rein back, and even lateral work! Polework is vital for developing balance and proprioception. Canter should only be introduced when the horse is advanced in his lunging. People often introduce canter too soon, which causes more problems than it fixes. Once the horse is able to canter in a balanced frame, transitions like walk - canter –walk - halt – walk should be done to encourage engagement of the hindquarter. Lunging aids such as side reins, de gouges, chambons, German elastics may be used to encourage correct work, however they should be fitted correctly and used for the correct purpose.

As a rule of thumb, the outline you are trying to achieve on the lunge looks as follows:














The most important things to look out for is that the horse is moving well forward, through a relaxed and swinging back, accepting the bridle and maintaining a good rhythm. The contact should remain steady – in other words not reaching and coming up, reaching and coming up as is often noticed. This is usually caused when the horse is forced into an outline before he is physically ready to maintain that outline. You will also notice, that as the sessions progress to include more advanced movements like transitions, polework and other exercises, that the outline changes. The horse will still be stepping well underneath himself but the shoulder and neck will lift in front. This is exactly what we would like the horse to do. Watch for contracting of the abdominal muscles, which will not only mean the back is rounding, but also that the hind legs are stepping up well.

Another thing to keep in mind is that before any training aid is attached, the horse should be allowed to warm up without it first. This includes plenty of work in walk and trot with lots of transitions between. (Can include a little canter if the horse is balanced and if the training has progressed that far.) Training aids often impede or spoil the walk if forward movement is not maintained, so try to do some work first before attaching the training aid. Generally speaking, I have found the following guide useful when it comes to training aids (although I must stress that every horse responds differently to a training aid and a qualified person’s assistance is vital!):

If the horse seems to be rather average and responds well on the lunge, side reins may be fitted normally. Also, fitting side reins in the normal position is advised when doing work on long reins, as well as work including canter.


If the horse tends to work too low to avoid using his back and hindquarter properly, the side reins should be lifted slightly. This has the effect of raising the front end. I would also introduce Polework and small jumps if applicable to encourage lifting the front end. Transitions are very important for the horse who likes to hang too low in front.


For a very hollow horse with a dry, open mouth, the side reins can be lowered to just behind the elbow. The effect of this is that the side reins will move the bit slightly as the horse works and thus encourage softening of the mouth and a lowering of the outline. Care should be taken because the action can become ‘sawing’ on the mouth if the reins are fitted too tightly. Once the mouth starts to soften and the horse understands what is expected, the reins can be lifted or another aid used.




For a horse who tends to hollow (as most horses off the track tend to do) with an underdeveloped topline, the following training aids may be used with great effect:












The chambon encourages the horse to drop lower in front and stretch through his back. It encourages development of the topline. It can only be used in walk and trot and should not be used when jumping or cantering. The main point to take into consideration with the chambon is that it ends on the bit. This makes it less kind than the next aid, which also works in a similar fashion.




The de Gouge works in a very similar fashion to the chambon and also encourages a lowering of the neck and rounding of the back. The main difference is that the de Gouge forma a triangle between the poll, bit and ring, so that the horse is more able to adjust his head position inside the triangle. There is more of an indirect pressure on the bit, which in some cases can be kinder on the horse’s mouth. Work should also only be in walk and trot.













The German elastic is another useful lunging aid, and van be fitted in a variety of ways depending on the effect to be produced. Care should be taken with this aid that the horse is not allowed to ‘break’ behind the poll, thereby avoiding the contact. Watch that the nose does not become tucked in to the chest, as this is another common form of evasion with this aid.









The Pessoa Training System is another useful training aid to be used on the lunge. It can be fitted on a number of settings, again, depending on the effect. The major advantage is that the strap behind the hindquarter encourages the horse to step deeper underneath himself, thereby encouraging a good outline. This aid should be fitted correctly, as it can cause damage to the horse’s mouth if fitted too tightly! I have found that lunging with two lunge lines, one at the normal position, and another going around the horse’s hind end through the inside rind and back to the hand, has the same effect and can be controlled and loosened or tightened depending on the horse.






As a quick example of how the training aids affect each horse differently, let’s take a look at the following example:









This horse is working in side reins, and by all accounts looks very pretty on the lunge. Look closer… you will notice that the horse is hanging behind the bit slightly, tipping his head to the outside and is not tracking up as well as he should. He is working over his right shoulder and seems to be rushing into the side reins slightly.






Again, we have the horse working in balancing reins. He is not tracking up well at all and is using the rein as a support in front. The neck is way too low and the chin tucked in. The horse is not using his shoulder at all, but is merely leaning on the balancing rein for support and to aid in the bend.









Here is the same horse on a Chambon. Notice how his outline has changed – he is moving straighter through his neck and head, is tracking up better and is stretching through his neck and back. There is more control of the action too.

I am not suggesting that every horse be lunged on a chambon! In fact, I barely use mine at all. What I am highlighting is that every horse is an individual and that a close evaluation be done of the horse when lungeing to see what would suit him best. I also want to illustrate how important it is that the trainer be aware of what the horse is doing.

The difference is very subtle, however I trust that this will illustrate how important it is that the trainer understands the use of the lunging aids and the importance of choosing the correct one for the individual horse.

Lunging correctly is going to assist the horse in understanding the aids, developing musculature to correctly carry the rider and improve suppleness and balance. Once the horse is lunging well, long reining can be introduced to further solidify the aids.

Once the rider has progressed to the stage where the horse is being ridden, the horse should better understand the aids (remember to use your voice commands with your physical aids and your horse will soon understand what is expected of him) and work should progress quickly. Hillwork will improve balance as will Polework. Obstacles courses will further strengthen the bond between horse and rider. The horse should only be taken out if he is listening and responding well to the aids and at first it may be wise to take an older, calmer and bombproof companion. This will reassure your horse and help him when out.


You may need to find a quiet arena to work your horse in, as he may get very excited or upset if there are other horses working with him. Often this becomes a problem at the first show – the atmosphere ups his adrenaline levels and sometimes your young Thoroughbred will become a different horse at his first show! The best way to train your new horse to relax at shows is to take him to a few local training shows and simply ride him around. This will give him a chance to realize that he can relax and does not put as much pressure on him to perform which may stress him even further.

At this stage of the training, I would suggest that a qualified instructor be called in to guide the rider in the chosen discipline and give more feedback as per the progress that has been made.

Working with Thoroughbred horses off the track can be one of the most rewarding things and it is always fantastic to take a horse that is really a wobbly, skinny, nervous wreck and transform it in a few months to a relaxed, obedient horse that is eager to please. Starting your new horse correctly can mean all the difference in his working life. I wish you and your new horse all the best of luck!

Retraining the Racehorse - Part One

RETRAINING THE RACEHORSE


RENEE SANEPOEL
SANEF LEVEL 1, N Dip EQUINE STUDIES

PART ONE: KEEPING YOUR RACEHORSE

“The racehorse was designed by God to explode into a machine that defies physiology!”

So said the Veterinarian, Dr George Pratt, and there is no better way to describe this, the ultimate equine athlete. Modern physiology and photography may have permitted us an understanding of how the racehorse runs, and that has only served to reinforce our awe of the creature.

The racehorse is taking six tons of force on his pastern bones as he puts each foot down. His heart rate surges to ten times its normal rate. His lungs are extracting a litre of oxygen with every stride. Bursting out of the starting stall, he can accelerate from a standstill to 60 km/ hour in two and a half seconds, and in a matter of half a dozen strides.

Racing is in the horse’s blood – since the ancient days when these beasts roamed the open fields, they have had the strong urge to outrun their own kind, their enemies and perhaps even their own shadows! Man has put to use this urge in the only way he knew how, and thus the Thoroughbred was born – living out its day’s running for the glory of man. Much abuse has been made of the horse, and perhaps he has been forced to run against his own will and better judgment at times; yet, there have been moments where we could look into the eyes of a Secretariat, a Red Rum or a Cigar and know for sure: This great horse loves to run!

And how they do…

With this picture in mind, is it any wonder that this well-tuned machine of speed will have some trouble settling down into a life so different from what he was born into and that his body would object to sudden changes in work and food and that his mind, once going at light speeds must find it difficult to slow down and adapt to a change in environment so radical from that which he is used to. He must stop and think of the human – once only a small part of his day and life - as a friend, an ally. His brain must turn from the instincts that have been bred into him over many generations and what was acceptable before, now becomes taboo.

Retraining the racehorse is not simply a matter of changing his environment and hoping for the best. It involves every aspect of his life and if done incorrectly or without sensitivity, is it no wonder the horse will have difficulty and may object to the new demands being placed upon him. Too many novice riders with limited experience and knowledge take on the task of retraining horses off the track and do not properly research or understand the enormity of the task they are attempting.

In this article, I will attempt to give some guidance to those wishing to take on the joy of owning a Thoroughbred off the track but do not have the help or knowledge, or know exactly what is waiting for them. My purpose is in the interest of the horse too – to lessen the impact of the change, lessen injuries or illness caused to the horse because of silly mistakes and to ensure that at the end of the road, the owner ends up with a happy horse and one that will bring joy for many years to come. There are many ways to approach the retraining and housing of your horse, and what may work for one horse will not necessarily work for another. What I have done here is relate my own experience and research and what has worked well for me in the past. If you experience any problems with your new arrival, you should refer to an expert in the relevant field for guidance.

To understand the way forward, one should always take a step back and examine the past. That will lend you the understanding you require to formulate an intelligent process in achieving your goals. To understand the way forward with your new horse, it is vital to understand how nature wired him, man bred him and life treated him.

The roots of the Thoroughbred go back to the late 17th century England. Three Arabian stallions imported from the Middle East were crossed with English mares to yield an entirely new breed of horse. All modern Thoroughbreds carry the bloodline of the Godolphin Arabian (pictured), the Byerly Turk, or the Darley Arabian. There are also other horses of oriental breeding that have been less of an influence but are still noteworthy. One of those is the Alcock Arabian, thought to be largely responsible for the grey coat color in Thoroughbreds. Others include the Unknown Arabian, the Helmsley Turk, the Lister Turk and Darcy's Chestnut. (For a super look at the early history of the Thoroughbred, have a look at: http://www.bloodlines.net/TB/Studbook/EarlyB.htm )

The cross of this foundation stock with sturdy English horses created a breed known for being competitive, fiery, strong, and big hearted in competition. The primary focus of Thoroughbred breeding is on creating racehorses. A racehorse is bred for speed and agility, and these traits also translate well into other horse sports. The breed has been used very successfully to improve other breeds or to marry the qualities of two breeds to produce a horse that will perform well in the chosen discipline.

The Thoroughbred is built for speed, and breeders have sometimes been criticized because it is felt that more attention gets paid to breeding horses of a certain family, or pedigree, rather than choosing traits that may improve conformation, temperament and reduce breakdown. The debate has never been resolved, and probably will never be! Concerns have been raised however, that the modern Thoroughbred is becoming less and less conformationally correct, with less width of bone and that individuals with good bloodlines that break down early in their careers are being retired to Stud, when those individuals are then perpetuating the same conformational defects that caused them to break down in the first place. Dr Bill Moyer of the College of Veterinary Medicine at Texas A & M has said that “Most [race]horses are raised to be sold, not to be athletes…The reality is it probably won’t improve – it will only get worse.”


The Thoroughbred stands a little over 16 hands on average (15.2hh to 17hh) and its appearance reveals its Arabian ancestry. A refined head with widely-spaced, intelligent eyes sits on a neck which is somewhat longer and lighter than in other breeds. The withers are high and well defined, leading to an evenly curved back. The shoulder is deep, well-muscled and extremely sloped while the heart girth is deep and relatively narrow. The legs are clean and long with pronounced tendons and move smoothly in unison through one plane. The bone structure of the upper hind leg makes room for long, strong muscling. The thighbone is long and the angle it makes with the hipbone is wide. The powerful muscling of the hip and thigh continues to the gaskin that is set low. Coat colors in Thoroughbreds may be bay, dark bay, chestnut, black or gray; roans are seen only rarely. White markings are frequently seen on both the face and legs.
Conformational defects often noted in the Thoroughbred include: ewe neck, small upright hooves and pasterns or alternatively long sloping pasterns, all common leg deviations especially tied in behind the knee, toes in or out, back at the knee, long weak gaskins and long backs. When selecting your horse, conformation plays a vital role in the ease with which your horse will perform in his chosen sport, so it is worth your while to pay special attention to it.

The Thoroughbred was bred to react to adrenaline – the clang of the starter’s bell produces a rush of adrenaline and a ‘fight or flight’ response in the horse that pushes him to race. On race day, the sight of people and flags and the bustle of the racetrack all translate to mounting excitement and the building of this ‘fight or flight’ response in the horse. When the horse is in this ‘flight or fight’ response, he cannot reason or learn – he is merely reacting. This is an important thing to remember when it comes to the training of your horse. The horse has been bred over years to react to external stimuli in this way. Many people do not understand this and are not sensitive to the fact that the horse will react much more sharply to external stimuli than many other breeds – that is why they buck, spook, run away with their riders and are generally termed ‘difficult’. A rider must be sensitive to the fact that perhaps the horse is merely reacting to the unfamiliar in the only way he understands how! It takes a rider of skill and patience to understand this and deal with it calmly and help the horse understand that he does not need to react in this manner. Very often the ‘bad’ racehorse makes a very good riding horse because he does not respond to the adrenaline rush and is much more ‘level-headed’ and easier to train. The horse must first learn to stop reacting and to start responding!

When selecting your horse off the track, there are a few pointers that will help you ensure you are making a wise investment. Be wary of ‘freebies’ – if a horse is being given away then there is very often a good reason for it! Often there is an underlying health problem or a potential problem waiting to happen. Sometimes these horses are spoiled and have psychological problems that make them dangerous and too much of a challenge for the average rider. When selecting a horse, pay special attention to conformation and movement, as it will influence your eventual success and will influence the working life of the horse in years to come. I prefer buying youngsters that have not made the track yet, as they are calmer and are have not been exposed to potential injuries and breakdown yet.

The most important thing when you have selected your potential purchase is to HAVE THE HORSE PROPERLY VETTED! When buying a horse off the track, include X-Rays of the legs (pay attention to the hocks, knees, pasterns and feet) If you can have the tendons scanned, do that too. Even if the horse is not costing you a cent – have him vetted properly with X-Rays. I have had too many clients get horses off the track only to be devastated when the horse has one buck outside and blows a knee or a pastern joint – something that would have been picked up before the purchase if X-Rays were taken. These horses are exposed to massive forces and wear and their legs take a punch. Don’t wait to be surprised! Often these horses need to get put to sleep and it can be heart-breaking.

Once you have selected your hopeful, it is time to bring him home!

The most important time for your horse is going to be those first few weeks after arriving at your yard. This is the time in which most accidents and illnesses like colics happen.
The first thing to note is that your horse has spent the majority of his day in the stable, except for a brief early morning training session. He has not been turned out with other horses and really, has not had much contact with horses except when training or in passing. The biggest mistake people make is to turn their new arrival out into a big paddock, even worse with a herd of other horses! What usually results is some kind of injury as the horse runs about madly, often in a panic, or the herd comes to investigate and a struggle breaks out. Your young thoroughbred is not going to know about being out so you will have to take steps to get him used to the idea slowly and protect him from injury.

The ideal situation is to combine in hand walks with a bridle and brief periods of turnout into small, safe enclosed areas to slowly get the horse used to being out. A possible scenario would be something like this:

Week One to Three:
8am – 10 to 20 mins In –Hand Walking
10am to 11 am – turn out into Lunge Arena / very small paddock (5m by 5m)
2pm – 10 to 20 mins In-Hand Walking
3 to 4 pm – turn out into Lunge Arena / very small paddock (5m by 5m)

Week Four to Six:
8am – 10 to 20 mins In –Hand Walking or lunging
10am to 11 am – turn out into Dressage Arena / very small paddock (10m by 10m)
2pm – 10 to 20 mins In-Hand Walking or lunging
3 to 4 pm – turn out into Dressage Arena / very small paddock (10m by 10m)

Week Seven Onwards:
8am – 10 to 20 mins lunging
10am to 11 am – turn out into Showjumping Arena / paddock
2pm – 10 to 20 mins lunging
3 to 4 pm – turn out into Showjumping Arena / paddock

The reason I like to turn out into arenas, is because racehorses often have poorly developed proprioception. (the information that is sent to the brain from the sensory devices located throughout the horse’s body in Muscle, Tendon, Ligament and Joints. These sensors inform the brain of the amount of tension in a particular muscle, how much stress a tendon or ligament is under, and what position a particular joint is in. This allows the horse’s brain to locate his body in space and compensate by re-balancing. A well developed and evolved sense of proprioception is what makes the Nooitgedacht or the Boerperd so sure-footed – they evolved being out on rough terrain and having to negotiate very uneven terrain. The racehorse has evolved to run very fast on flat ground and has never really had to worry about where his feet go!) This is often why a Thoroughbred finds it difficult to just ‘pick up those feet!’ especially when out on an outride. They fall over everything until they learn to improve their proprioception. (all to be taken into account in a good training program!) This is also why they will find some sharp point (no matter if it is the ONLY one in the entire paddock!) and hurt themselves on it. They step on their own feet and they wobble around until they are used to being out! Being in the arena means we eliminate hard ground, holes, rocks and other potential factors that may cause injury.

Be careful when turning your new horse out into a field of lush green grazing – his digestive tract is not used to the grazing and it is also high in natural sugars – a recipe for disaster! A colic or diarrhoea is sure to result! Rather turn him out onto the lush grazing for no longer than 1 hour per day at first, to give his gut a chance to adapt. (Two 30 min sessions should be fine.)

Another thing I do to prevent injury during this period of adjustment is to turn out with boots or bandages. This protects the lower limbs from injury. Always use padding under bandages, and only bandage if you are sure that you can do it correctly. Ask your veterinarian to help you if you are unsure! When choosing a boot for turnout, I like to use Sports Medicine Boots in front and behind, simply because they offer the most coverage of the limb and do not carry the risks of bandaging incorrectly. Brushing boots will also offer some measure of protection. Boots and bandages should be kept clean and taken off as soon as the horse comes back in. Legs can be hosed after the horse comes in to stimulate circulation and wash off any mud, sweat and dirt. Be very aware of not leaving the horse with wet legs in his stable as mud fever may result. Dry legs off with a towel and examine for any injury before returning the horse to his stable.

Once the horse settles outside, it may be time to introduce other horses. The best way to do that is to take your ‘old faithful’ who you know is happy to be turned out with anyone, introduce them over the fence and see what happens. If the horses seem happy, turn them out together and observe. If the horse has been turned out next to other horses, the neighbor can be introduced if there is no possibility of an argument ensuing. If you have no other horses to turn out with yours, or your horse does not seem to settle in a group or you discover to your dismay that your horse is a bully and will not go in a paddock with any other horse, a sheep, goat cow or other companion can be turned out with the horse with great success. (Goats may drive you mad, so try a sheep if you are worried!) Even a small Shetland or Miniature pony might be a suitable companion, however the possibility of a fight may still be there with a small pony.

The trick is to try different solutions until you find one that works for you. It also depends very much on the yard and facilities and what the stable manager is willing to do for you.

The next big hurdle new owners face with their racehorses is that of diet and feeding. If possible, find out what feed the horse is receiving currently and how much. In this way you can start him off on the same ration he is getting so that you can wean him over slowly and reduce your risk of digestive upsets and colic. Typical racehorse rations in South Africa look something like this:

Product One (Low Protein Race Cube)

For the horse commencing training and only in very light work.

Crude Protein: 120g/kg
Crude Fat: 25 g/kg
Crude Fibre: 120g/kg
Max Moisture: 120g/kg
Min Phosphorous: 3 g/kg
Ca:Ph Ratio: 1.2 – 2:1

Typically, horses on this diet will receive 2 to 5kg of concentrate feed per day, 1kg of Lucerne per day and 3 kg of hay(Eragrostis or Teff) per day.

Product Two (mid-range Protein Level Race Cube)

For the mature horse in hard training.

Crude Protein: 140g/kg
Crude Fat: 25 g/kg
Crude Fibre: 120g/kg
Max Moisture: 120g/kg
Min Phosphorous: 4 g/kg
Ca:Ph Ratio: 1.8 – 2:1

Typically, horses on this diet will receive 8 to 12 kg of concentrate feed per day, 1 - 2kg of Lucerne per day and 3 - 6 kg of hay (Eragrostis or Teff) per day.

Product Three (High Protein Level Race Cube)

For growing and mature horse in hard training and those with limited appetites.

Crude Protein: 160g/kg
Crude Fat: 25 g/kg
Crude Fibre: 120g/kg
Max Moisture: 120g/kg
Min Phosphorous: 8 g/kg
Ca:Ph Ratio: 1.6 – 2:1

Typically, horses on this diet will receive 6 to 12 kg of concentrate feed per day, 1 - 2kg of Lucerne per day and 3 - 6 kg of hay (Eragrostis or Teff) per day.

If you can get the make and amounts of feed your horse is receiving, try to stick to it for the first few days after your horse arrives. This will make the change of routine, home and everything else less traumatic for the horse. The feeding routine can then slowly be adapted or changed over a period of two to four weeks. For example, you can begin to add handfuls of the new concentrate feed to the old one and slowly change the ratio over until he is on the new feed.

If you only have the brand of feed, try to buy a 12% general feed in the same brand and change him over from that. Manufacturers will use the same source ingredients in their feeds, and what makes the rations different is the amounts they use in each various formulation. This means that although the amounts may be different, the basic ingredients are the same.

If you have no idea what the horse is eating, you will have to slowly start feeding your own chosen feed. Probiotic supplementation is vital then to try and prevent colic and to ensure a good colony of microorganisms that will be able to handle the changes in diet. Start very slowly and gradually increase the feed. High doses of probiotics are advised until the ration has been settled, in which case you can return to normal levels.

The biggest challenge facing the new owner of a horse fresh off the track is to maintain weight and make a safe transition to the new feeding routine. Most horses off the track will lose condition and there are many theories surrounding this. (I am not going to go into the debate of steroids, jugs, and other dark practices in this article!)

What we do know is that the racehorse has most likely been fed a high grain, low roughage diet. (Usually about 60:40 ratio) The result of this is high starch diet is that it causes the levels of lactic acid in the hindgut to increase, causing the digestive bacteria in the hindgut to die and produce toxins, which can in turn cause colic and laminitis. Combine this with the fact that approximately 80% of racehorses have gastric ulcers, and you can understand that the racehorse’s digestive system is not functioning properly. Ideally, we would want to increase the amounts of roughage being fed and reduce the amount of grains, however there are a few problems in doing this. Firstly, as with any changes to diet, the transition to a new diet should be done very slowly – over a period of two to four weeks - to give the digestive tract time to adapt. Simply changing the diet will not only predispose the horse to colic and other digestive upsets, the horse will also not be adapted to utilizing the additional fibre in his diet because of the poor levels and the types of microorganisms in the gut. In other words, even though you increase the amount of forage (teff, etc) in his diet, his body won’t be able to use it! To assist the gut in adapting to the changes in diet, a probiotic should be fed daily to supplement the microorganisms in the gut. Probiotics are live bacteria cultures that supplement those found in the gut. Yeasts and other products of fermentation do not contain any live bacteria but work by changing the pH of the gut to a more acceptable level for the microorganisms in the gut, thereby helping them to multiply and work better. There are no risks associated with feeding probiotics, and in the case of the horse fresh off the track, I would highly recommend their use. To be most effective, they should be fed over a long period of time and be very careful as to their storage, as the bacteria are very sensitive and will be easily destroyed if exposed to heat, wet or other adverse conditions. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

One brief word on equine feeds that have had probiotics added to the ration – I am of the opinion that we are not advanced enough in equine feed manufacture and storage in South Africa to ensure that probiotics added to feeds will not spoil by the time they reach your yard. (Although we are making rapid improvement!) I would rather spend the money on high quality feed and add the probiotic as a supplement, knowing that it has been stored properly and is fresh. Once the feed leaves the manufacturer, control of storage and the stock practices adopted by feed merchants is very difficult to control. To protect the bacteria from spoiling, the bag would have to be sealed, waterproof, and the feed fresh. If you would like to use a probiotic supplemented feed, by all means do so, but you may have to supplement with probiotics in addition to the feed.

Work done by Warwick College (UK) has shown that feeding probiotics has the following effects:

• Improve the composition of the mare's milk
• Increase early milk production
• Increase the availability of nutrients to foals, thereby enhancing growth
• Improve fiber digestion by approximately 7.5%
• Improve crude protein digestion by 11-14%
• Improve phosphorus digestion by approximately 22%
• Improve calcium digestion
• Increase feed conversion efficiency by up to 24%
• Increase nitrogen retention, thereby improving growth rates
• Stabilize the digestive system, reducing the risk of colitis and laminitis
• Stabilize weight and speed up any weight loss recovery after strenuous exercise
• Maintain health and condition of the animal

Another issue that must be attended to is the likelihood of ulcers. Research shows that over 80% of racehorses in work have ulcers. Stomach acid is continuously secreted in the horse, unlike humans, and this means that they are predisposed to ulcers, especially if they are fed high grain diets, are starved before races, do not have enough roughage in the diet to buffer secretions or are in high stress environments. Sounds a lot like the life of a racehorse, doesn’t it! (A big difference in humans is that ulcers are usually linked to bacteria, which is not the case in horses.)The only way to confirm ulcers is by inserting a ‘scope’ (fibreoptic tube that shows images of the stomach) into the stomach to check for them. They are graded depending on their severity. If your horse seems to be showing some of the signs of ulcers and is not doing well despite the feed he is getting, it may be worth your while to have him checked. (Signs to watch out for include: refusing to eat, grinding the teeth, showing abdominal discomfort and a poor hair coat.) The vet will advise on treatment, which is usually an agent to decrease acid secretions in the stomach, but management plays a vital role in treating ulcers and preventing them from recurring. Frequent meals, ad lib grazing or roughage and decreased grain diets will already go a long way to help the horse.

Oil supplementation is becoming more and more popular as research into the high fat, high fibre, low starch diet is showing the benefits thereof. Essentially, oil is much more calorie dense when compared to grains. They are readily accepted by the horse and easily digested. The most important factor to consider when feeding the ex-racehorse is that starch must be reduced without losing the additional calories the horse will need to maintain weight. Oil provides these calories without the dangers associated with feeding grains and especially with the picky eater, calories can be greatly increased without increasing the volume of feed much. (For more information, please refer to my article ‘Feeding Fats to Horses’) Any vegetable oil will be readily accepted by the horse, with corn and sunflower oil being the most popular. Animal fats are also shown to be well digested by the horse, but acceptability becomes the biggest problem. Introduce the oil slowly and over a period of about a week or two.
A good mineral and vitamin supplement should be fed to the horse, as well as access to a salt lick.

A typical ration for your new horse may eventually look something like this:

Morning Feed:
12% to 14% Grain Free Mix
150 ml Sunflower Oil
Probiotic

Afternoon Feed:
12% to 14% Grain Free Mix

Night /Evening Feed:
12% to 14% Grain Free Mix
150 ml Sunflower Oil
Probiotic
0.5kg Lucerne
Vitamin and Mineral supplement

The amount of concentrate feed must be calculated according to the horse’s body weight and requirements. The concentrate feed can be brought down to a 10% or 12% once the horse has gained weight or if he is gaining weight too quickly or is showing other signs of too much protein in his diet.

More Quick Tips:

-Feed at least twice a day, preferably more if possible. Four smaller feeds spread throughout the day are much better than two big ones.

-Feed only the best quality you can! Check food for mould, smells, clumping or changes in composition. Forage should also be free of mould, still have a green colour and smell sweet. Be wary of feeding too much Lucerne, as it will unbalance the Ca:P ratio and may cause problems. Also be careful with oat hay bedding – your new horse may just tuck into his bedding which could cause an impaction colic.

-Be consistent in the amount and type of feed. If you must change, change only by 1/4 of the amount being fed per day and do so over a period of two or more weeks.

-Make sure the horse has access to a salt lick.

-Provide a good source of water at all times.

-Control parasites. Consider asking your vet to administer a drench when the horse arrives. Also control parasites out in the paddocks by regularly removing manure and never use manure as a top dressing in your paddocks. (Unless you open all the balls, thereby exposing potential parasites to light and air. I just never do it.)

-Check the teeth to see if they need floating (filing off the sharp edges). Checking the teeth by a specialist when the horse arrives is a MUST! It will influence not only weight gain, but also the schooling of the horse.

-Regularly monitor the condition (weight) of the horse. If he seems to gaining weight too quickly, reduce your hard feed. If he is not gaining enough, increase forage first, then oils and then only hard feed.

-Provide regular physical and mental stimulation. Play games with your new horse.

-Observe the horse every day for general health (temperature, pulse, and respiration, etc.).

-Feed by weight – not volume! (Please no measuring in coffee cans! Meals are calculated in kg’s!)

There is perhaps an element of truth in the fact that the horse may have been exposed to substances that he will need to get out of his system, be they strong doses of vitamins, or worse. You may choose to provide him with liver support during this period of adjustment. Speak to your veterinarian about this and he can make a recommendation. You could try herbal supplements such as Nettle, Dandelion root and Chickweed that all work as a good diuretic and can be helpful. Milk thistle seed/yellowdock root and burdock will help flush the liver and are considered excellent blood cleansers as well. Homeopathy can also be a useful way to get your horse over the worst ‘speedbump’ in his path to adjustment. Please do consult the professionals on this as it is a very specialized area!

I have mentioned getting your new arrival checked by the Vet and Dentist. There is another area in which your new arrival may need help – feet!

Without going into too much detail, racehorses are not well known for the excellent condition of their feet. This can be attributed to various factors, including genetics, poor shoeing techniques (especially the long-toe-low-heel shoeing that is still common in some areas but so bad for the horse!), diet and nutrition and the stresses placed on the hooves when racing. Your horse may also still be shod with his aluminum plates which will need to be removed. A knowledgeable farrier will be able to advise you on the road ahead with your horse’s hooves. There may be changes that must be made to angles, problems to sort out and so forth. You should see an improvement in the quality of the horse’s hooves simply because of better nutrition and if he suggests it, a supplement may need to be given for a few months until the hooves look better.

The debate on whether to shoe or not is a hot topic at the moment. I would recommend that should you be wanting to go barefoot, consult with your farrier and veterinarian and read up as much as you can on the topic. Some Thoroughbreds will go barefoot quite easily, and others struggle. You need to be fully informed so that you can do it properly, and in conjunction with the help of professionals!

In cold areas or during his first winter, you might want to consider turning your horse out with a light cotton rug during the day, to help him conserve energy. Because they are not used to going out into the elements, it can happen that the horse will use a lot of energy to keep warm in cooler weather. If the horse is thin, he will not have a layer of fat keeping him warm. If the horse is struggling to gain weight I would consider a light turn out rug in cold weather. Once the weather warms up and once he has gained sufficient body fat, you can turn him out without it.

In part Two, we will look closely at the schooling process you will need to follow, and what your new horse will need to learn in order for him to develop properly and become a success under saddle.
 
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