Fresian In Hand Showing

Question:

I have bought a 7 month old friesian colt and have entered him in the pta show.. the problem is i have no idea how in hand showing works! he can trot next to me reasonably well, walk and after a few seconds of tugging he does halt... has anyone got any tips on how to refine his training and advice on techniques that i can use because right now its the classic "follow the carrot" technique thats proving to be most effective but i guess the judges wont like that very much.. bottom line- what should i be training him and how?

Answer:

Congratulations on getting what I am sure is going to be a horse that will bring you plenty of pleasure and hours of fun. Having worked with many Fresians before, I have developed a bit of a soft spot for them. They are easily trained, hungry to please and they still have plenty of spunk! I have always been amazed at the types of things those horses could be taught and how easily they form strong bonds with their owners.

My worst moment with a Friesian at a showing show was when my recently backed young Friesian boy decided at his very first show that all this clean and shiny nonsense was for the birds and decided to roll in the middle of the in-hand class! I could only stand there miserably and wish the ground would swallow us whole! Fortunately, the grass was soft and green and the judges were busy with the other horses so he got up, I dusted him off and we went on to come second in that class and reserve champion for the show. What I am trying to say is that even if your worst nightmare is realized in the middle of a class, you still never know how things will go and after that you can laugh about it and never forget it! Don’t let your nerves get the better of you and enjoy it no matter what!

The way that Friesians are shown in hand in Society Fresian Classes is basically as follows:

Dress:

Neat Khaki Long pants that cover the ankle(you could wear a long khaki skirt of you wanted to – might be in the way when you run though!) with a White collar shirt and Khaki Cap. What is preferred is the official Society shirt and tie with their emblem on. You may not wear any clothes that advertise a stud, for example, and the Handler and his/her Assistant (should there be one) must be dressed the same. The emphasis must be on neatness and presenting a professional image.

Your number must be pinned neatly to your back and must be A5 sized.

Your Horse:

The focus is on a healthy, good looking individual that is a proud ambassador of the breed. Feet must be neatly trimmed, hair under the chin/jaw and excess hair under the stomach may be trimmed neatly. I have also noted that some Friesians have had their ears neatly trimmed of excess hair however the rulebook does not say anything about it being allowed or not.
The horse may be shown in a halter if he is under 12 months, and for horses over 12 months, a bridle is used. The halter may be black, brown or white. White presents best.
Basic show turnout does apply here – things like polishing hooves, face makeup and things like that to improve the appearance of your colt.


Procedure:

Horses are judged from the moment they enter the arena. Normally, horses enter in an anti-clockwise direction at a trot and line up facing the pavilion or where the judge is standing. Normally, judges are very good at tlling you what they expect so that everyone knows what to do. What usually happens is that one by one, the competitors walk towards the judge, halt and present their horse. You will then be asked to walk away from the judge, trot in an anti-clockwise direction past the spectators and return to the line. Sometimes, a triangle is set up to help competitors, and the horse will walk and trot along the triangle. The judge will tell you what he prefers. Each horse may have a maximum of 2 handlers in the arena, although you might not need an extra handler if your colt is well schooled. If you would like to use a crop of sorts, a neat crop of approximately 1m should do.

I hope that helps you a bit. In terms of schooling, your young horse should be performing walk, trot and halt on your command. His shoulder should be in line with your shoulder and he should be able to quietly stand in the que with other horses (often the most difficult part of the class!) as the judging may take some time. Try to position yourself near the front of the que when lining up so that your horse is judged sooner as he may get difficult if he has to wait a long time and that may spoil your individual judging later on.

If you are going to be doing normal SANEF showing in –hand classes, things are a little different, so do let me know!

Also, you might want to get in touch with the friendly folks at the Society, who can direct you in terms of clothing, halters and more tips.
Call them on 051-4302456 or friesperd@studbook.co.za

Mane and Tail Care

Question:



Hi, what can I do to stimulate hair growth? When I first got my horse, his main was long and soft. I've been struggling ever since to get it back that way. secondly, how do I keep it soft?


Answer:



This is something that can drive horse owners mad! The horse with scraggly, horrible mane and tail that just will not plait for shows and looks horrid. There are a number of factors that need to be looked at with manes and tails which I will attempt to explain.

Firstly, manes and tails are a matter of genetics. No matter how well you treat it, what you feed your horse or how much you wish for it, if his genetics say thin mane and tail, there is not too much you can do about it! Thinner skinned breeds such as the Thoroughbred, Arabian and even some Appaloosa’s tend to have thinner manes and tails than some other breeds. No amount of potions or concoctions will suddenly make him sprout hair where there is genetically none! What you can do is to ensure that his hair growth is as healthy as possible and that it lives up to his genetic potential.

Next, the secret to healthy hair growth is not so much what goes on the outside, but importantly what goes into your horse that can make all the difference! One of the tell-tale signs of good nutrition and a healthy animal is a shiny, well looking coat and hooves. The make-up of hair and hoof is practically the same, so if the horse’s hooves are of a poor quality, chances are his mane and tail won’t be looking too great either.
Supplementing with oils (especially the Omega 3 oils) have been proven to have a wonderful effect on the quality of the skin and coat. I would add at least a cup of oil to his meals every day. In fact, supplementing with oils often results in a much finer and healthier looking winter coat after one or two seasons! A fuzzy, dull winter coat is often a sign of a dry coat. All of my horses that have been supplemented with oils for over a season have much better looking winter coats the second year around. The second vital ingredient to a healthy hair growth is biotin. Originally called Vitamin H, (from Haut, the German word for skin) biotin is a B vitamin so essential that it is manufactured in the gut naturally. Even though an extreme deficiency could result in death, those cases are very rare. A deficiency will generally appear in the form of a dull, lackluster coat, and/or cracked, brittle hooves. An important fact to remember is that if you are feeding high oil diets, or supplementing with oils, often incorrectly stored fats will go rancid. Rancid fats will inhibit the uptake of biotin in the system. Biotin will also improve the quality of hoof growth and thus is a major ingredient in all hoof supplements. With a horse suffering from a poor coat and hair growth, I often supplement with a hoof supplement containing Biotin, zinc and methionine –all proven to improve the quality of growth of the hoof, and by extension, the hair. Cider vinegar has been shown to improve hair growth and is a close second to biotin in terms of supplementing. Garlic and Echinacea have been used in the past to prevent itching, assist the body during changes of season and are great for immune function as well as a host of other benefits to the horse. Garlic will help repel some nuisance insects too, which will decrease scratching.
Once you are happy that your horse is getting the best nutrition and feeding you can give him to promote a good quality coat and hair growth, you need to look at reasons for him causing damage to his mane and tail. The most common reason is scratching. A horse will often scratch his mane or tail because of parasites – ticks, mites or internal parasites such as worms will cause the skin to itch and the horse will scratch. Go hunt out in the paddock and see if you can spot stray hairs on trees, fences or mangers and that may be a sign that your horse is scratching his precious tail or mane away! A skin fungus will also itch, causing the horse to scratch, especially horses that are often wet. Sweating during exercise or hot weather will cause the horse to itch, and often after a hard workout I will hose a horse down to prevent this. No need to wash with soap, just hose all the sweat off. I have always tried to have a hot water geyser at my yards so that warm water is available for this. Deworming is a vital and often overlooked part of good horse-keeping, and often incorrectly done. In fact, worm resistance is becoming more and more a problem in Africa, mostly because if incorrect deworming practices.
If horses are outside together in paddocks, make sure that the other horses are not grooming your horses mane and tail away. It is normal for horses to groom each other, but often this can lead to some hair loss, although usually not too significant, unless your horse did not have too much hair to begin with! Tail chewing is also a common reason for hair loss, especially amongst youngsters who will chew their mother’s or each other’s tails! Daily wear and tear can also cause damage to a horse’s tail – long tails get stepped on sometimes or caught in the shoes while exercising. Horses kept in bushy paddocks often get their tails caught in bushes and trees as they play and run about. It is common in showing yards in the US that horse’s tails are braided and placed into special tail bags, to prevent breakage. I was amazed at how well that worked. (Some horse owners incorrectly say that it is the weight of the mane and tail braids and bags that cause the hair to grow out faster – this is not true – it is the fact that the hairs are not damaged by the external environment to as great an extent that causes the improvement often seen.) Finally, incorrect brushing of manes and tails often cause great damage. Some people say that tails and manes should not be brushed at all, and that only the fingers should be used, however I have found that using the correct brushes/combs and the correct techniques prevents hair from being pulled out as is so common when combing recklessly. I prefer a wide toothed human brush or comb and always start at the bottom and gently work my way up the tail in sections. A very successful showing personality in the UK says that she brushes her horse’s tails and manes regularly and has no damage as a result, once again, it is the technique that is important.
Lastly, to ensure a healthy mane and tail, some washing will be required. Dirt, grease and sweat gather on the skin and will cause itching, so it is important to keep the skin clean. Too much washing, on the other hand will strip the skin of vital oils and cause it to dry out, again, causing it to itch. It is advisable to wash the mane and tail only about every 2-3 weeks, or as required. Inspect the base of the tail and if there is a lot of dirt and grit, it may be time for a wash. If you notice the horse scratching the base of the tail or mane it may also be time for a wash. When washing, it is important to get the skin clean, not so much the actual hair, so make sure you wash right on the base of the mane and tail well. Next, it is important to provide some external moisture to the hair, which is often dried out due to exposure to the elements and can make the hair brittle. A good rule of thumb is to remember that conditioner or hot oil treatments work best, but also gather dust and dirt, so use a conditioning treatment on the loose hair only, keeping it away from the skin and base of the mane and tail. Human products can work very well, especially those made for babies, as they have a mild formulation and better pH than normal human products. Refrain from using mane and tail shine and detanglers that contain silicon, which has been proven to dry hair out, and only bring them out when needed, like for shows. When all else fails, and your horse is still scratching no matter what, a Betadine wash can work wonders to stop the itching. Word to the wise – the iodine may cause your grey to go a bit brown! Hibiscrub also works as well and will not cause as much discolouration! Remember to leave it in for at least 5 minutes so that it can do its job before rinsing it off! I worked at a top class Arabian showing yard in the US, and they believed strongly in using Listerine (yes, the mouthwash) sprayed on to the skin to stop itching and tail rubbing. It works in a similar way as the other Antiseptics I have mentioned I suspect… and the horse’s behinds smelled lovely and minty too! J Might be worth a try if all else fails!(there are better products though, I believe, like Hibiscrub!)
I hope this information has been of use – it is a matter of trial and error and going out to determine exactly what the problem is. If your horse is really losing hair badly and it is sudden, it may be wise to call in the VET to check for any obvious health issues surrounding hair loss.

Size of Stable

Question:

I have noticed a distinct slope in my horse''s stable floor, from at least 1-1.5 meters from the stable door. So if he were to stand looking out of his stable he would be in a distinct downward angle -on his forehand as it were, as he stands looking out. Is this good bad or indifferent for him to be standing with all his weight on the forehand? It is an earth sand floor whereby the level could be corrected-would you advise that this is the right thing to do? I have placed a rubber mat over this section i.e. the first third of the floor area. Also what is the ideal sqm area for a stable ? Ours are approx 3 x 3 . Horse are all approx 15.3 to 16.2 some TB some Warmblood x.

Answer:

Interesting question. Firstly, as per the size of the stable. The British Horse Society recommends the following:

Standard Stable (16hh and under) : 3.7m x 3.1m
Larger Stable (over 16hh) : 3.7m x 3.7m to 4.2m x 3.7m
Pony Stable (under 15hh) : 3.1m x 3.1m
Small Pony Stable (under 12hh) : 2.4m x 2.4m
Foaling Box : 4.6m x 4.6m

Canadian authorities seem to like a slightly bigger stable, bearing in mind that their horses spend a lot of time indoors. (4m x 4m recommended for horses) The more time the horse will spend inside the stable, the more critical the right size becomes. Taking into consideration also that a bigger floor has a bigger bedding requirement, an average size of 3.5m x 3.5m should be ok for most horses. Another important consideration in stable size is the height of the stable as that influences the ventilation of the stable. Of course, the highest roof in the world will have no benefit if there is no allowance for ventilation, so that would influence the stable ‘correctness’ too, as it were. If your horse is out most of the day and is a typical 16hh TB with a light build, he should be ok in a 3m x 3m stable with good ventilation and lots to see, however a 3.5m x 3.5m stable will probably be more to his liking. If he can comfortably lie down and get up that will be ok. For a 16hh to 17hh big Warmblood, this will be too small. The ideal and most creative way of increasing the size of a horse’s stable without too much construction work is to simply build a row of paddocks on the outside wall of the stable and knock out the window into a decent size doorway and the horse is then free to wander in and out of his stable as he pleases. Proper fencing is required, so you don’t have neighbors fighting over the fence, but I have found this to be a perfect way of keeping horses that spend a lot of time in their stables, horses that have breathing problems like COPD and horses that tend to get bored and disruptive in their stables.

The characteristics of a good floor are the following:

- Should be easy on the horse’s legs, offering a slight ‘give’ to reduce strain
- Should be dry and non-odour retentive
- Should provide traction and be non-slip
- Should be durable, resist damage from the horse (esp if he paws the ground) and stay level
- Should be easy to clean and disinfect
- Should be affordable to the owner
- Should be low maintenance

A topsoil floor may at first seem like a natural, most saught after floor, however it does have a few problems. It is inexpensive, non slip, easy on the horse’s legs and joints and mostly absorbent, however the biggest problem with these floors are that they need to be leveled and replaced often. They also tend to retain odours and dampness and are almost impossible to disinfect and clean properly. The normal slope of a stable floor should not exceed 2-5 degrees. Bearing in mind that your horse in it all the time but will move himself around to stay comfortable.) I would pull up the mat, fill in the floor and (IMPORTANT)compact it again with a whacker that you can rent from most construction equipment rental companies, to provide a more suitable area for your horse to stand on.

Mixing Own Feed

Question:

I would like to begin mixing my own feed. I have Friesian horses - 4 mares and a colt. I have been advised to mix crushed mielies, sunflower seeds, oil (linseed or canola), 10% meal e.g. Equifeeds, oats, garlic, carrots and soya bean meal to make up a good feed for the breed; however I have no idea of the proportions of each to mix in order to make up a balanced feed. Also, once mixed, how many kilograms do I feed daily? Do I need to add an extra vitamin / mineral mix into their food as well e.g. Codlevine? Please advise. Many thanks.

Answer:

It is very brave of you to want to mix your own feed and I can tell that you absolutely have your horse’s best interests at heart here, so well done to you!

Feeding horses is a costly business and of course everyone wants to try and save money as far as possible but at the same time not compromise on their horse’s good health and well-being. Mixing one’s own feed, however, is not a cheaper or easier option for the average horse owner I believe. In situations of farms and studs that have large numbers of horses to feed, facilities to mix feed and that are often far from any feed store, mixing their own rations becomes a viable option. These farms always have their feeds professionally balanced and tested and still mix different types of feeds for the different horses they are catering for – ie broodmares, stallions, foals etc. (or they should be!)

By taking a balanced, scientifically formulated ration, like the 10% Equifeeds, and then adding extra mielies, oats, seeds and other grains, causes the ration to become unbalanced. The only way to check the actual levels of protein, carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals and other ratios of the feed is to actually have it sent to a laboratory to have it tested. That is the ONLY way to know that you are in fact feeding a balanced ration, if you are making up your own ration.

Because you have a youngster to feed, your correct formulation becomes even more important, as young horses have very specific requirements that have to be taken into consideration.

The most important checks we generally use when deciding on a ration are as follows: digestible energy requirements; (ie does the ration provide enough calories or energy to keep the horse alive and provide for the extra work he may be doing.) minimum crude protein measurements; (ie does the ration provide enough protein that the body needs in order to grow and function properly) Calcium:Phospherous ratios; (very important as it affects bone growth and maintainance as well as a host of other body functions) and trace Mineral and Vitamin levels. (too much of any vitamin or mineral can be toxic, too little can cause health problems too.)

Having kept Fresians for many years I can tell you that they are very good doers generally, and require less hard fed than many other breeds to stay fit and healthy. That means that your feeding regime can be simplified greatly and they will still be getting all the nutrients they require.

If I were you, I would stick to a balanced formulation of hard feed – a 10% or 12% general mix will be fine for your adult horses, and your youngster should be getting a mix formulated for his age (for example, try Spurwing’s 14% Supagrowth, Equifeeds’ Roberton 15 % Feed or Vuma’s Vigour 15%) . Pick a feed that is readily available to you, check for high quality and also make sure that the company has professionals available to you that you can approach for advise on their feeds. Add a cup of sunflower oil (or any other vegetable oil, like corn oil or canola oil) to their feed daily as a way of keeping their coats shiny and healthy, especially now in winter when the air is so dry. Garlic is great so keep adding that to their ration as well. Carrots and apples will keep the feed interesting and give a little ‘juiciness’! Provide them with good quality hay (roughage) and that should be enough to keep them in great condition. I have never had a Fresian that needed extra Lucerne to keep in good condition. If you are worried about the condition of the roughage, especially in winter, you can add a vitamin supplement like Super Codlivine or a small slice of lucern to their hay ration at night. I like to feed a probiotic to my horses, as it improves their ability to digest roughage in the gut, absorb nutrients and has a host of other benefits. I have also found that since feeding a probiotic, my horses needed slightly less hard feed to maintain their optimal weights.

I hope that helps you – very often we are so afraid that we are not doing enough that we tend to overdo things and really, it is not necessary! Feed companies have taken the time, effort and costs to make sure that their food is balanced and contains everything your horse needs. In my book it is worth paying extra for and much less effort than trying to source ingredients, test rations and run the risk of harming my horse.

Dressage Saddle

Question:

Hi guys! Im looking to buy a dressage saddle and im not sure on what make or type to buy..does any1 have any recommendations? Im not necessarily worried about the price, but more on the comfort and functionality of the saddle in helping with my riding.

Answer:

When it comes to saddles, there is so much one can say, however, I am going to try and steer you in a good direction and let the expertas take over from there!

There are two types of fit to consider when deciding on a saddle – firstly, it should fit your horse correctly and secondly but also important, it should fit you!

No horse will ever work properly in an ill-fitting saddle. All saddles are not made equally and in fact, sometimes the cheaper saddle will fit a horse much better than the very expensive ones. It all depends on the shape of your horse and how he moves. Also to be taken into account is the numnuh you decide to use (less is more!) as well as the placement of the saddle on your horse’s back. These all have an influence on the way the saddle fits your horse. To fit a saddle to a horse is a specialized business, and since you are aiming to do the best thing for you and your horse, I would suggest that you have a speciallised saddle fitter come out and assist you in choosing a saddle. Not only do they have excellent knowledge on the fit of the saddle, they also usually have an excellent amount of resources and even test saddles that can be tried and fitted.

Also important, is the saddle fitter will have you sit in the new saddle on your horse and will make sure that it fits you well. Most saddles have different widths, different depths of seat and will have different influences on your seat. Have your instructor with when you ride in the test saddle so that he or she can see what happens to your seat.

Be careful that you are not too deceived by thick, position setting rolls on a dressage saddle – it will surely put you in a position, however, you should be able to maintain a correct position without it. Thick rolls also tend to fix the leg in a way that CAN make subtle aids and seat aids tricky. There is no saddle on the market, sadly, that will make anyone a better rider! There are saddles out there that will badly influence position and those are the ones that you should avoid – however only by sitting on one on your horse will you know! People are built differently – a saddle that pushes your lower leg forward and pushes your seat back into the cantle might not do the same for somebody built differently on a different horse!

My advice thus, is to get in touch with a good saddle fitter – if you are in Gauteng, try Western Shoppe or Rider’s. They have mobile tack shops that will come out to your premises with saddle fitters if you ask. IN KZN, try The Stable Cat (031 765 2511) and in the Cape Area try Horse and Hound(021 852 3850) and ask if they can recommend a good fitter.

Deep Litter System

Question:

Can anyone shed some light on the use of the Deep Litter System (we use wood shavings) for stables? What are the pros and cons of this system?

Answer:

A deep litter bedding system is one where droppings are removed throughout the day, but the rest of the bed is left undisturbed, with fresh bedding being added on top. Some people remove the wet shavings too, but strictly speaking it is left. Using this system, the bed needs to be completely dug out at least once a month or every second month, when the bedding should be removed, the floor swept, scrubbed or disinfected and left to dry, before putting in a new bed. It is a good idea to once a week remove the excessive wet patches leaving the rest of the bed undisturbed. If you do this then the monthly removal of the bed is slightly easier. With good management this type of mucking out can work very well, although monthly removal of bedding is heavy work. Traditionally, this type of bed was thrown with straw, although recently shavings have become more popular.

Important things to know about this type of bedding is that firstly, droppings MUST be removed as quickly as possible so that they do not become trodden into the shavings. Also important is that you start off with enough bedding – most people make the mistake of not putting enough bedding to start with, so that by the end of a month the horse is sleeping on concrete! I would fill it to a depth of 40cm at least, more if possible. A deep litter system works well with a natural floor, as the floor can be ‘dug down’ a little, allowing for a deep bed to be thrown in. These types of beds are labour saving and can be economical, bearing in mind though that enough bed must be put in initially. Because the beds are not opened every day, spores and dust released into the air are a bit less than with conventional beds. The biggest problems with deep litter systems is that because the wet shavings are not removed daily, ammonia builds up in the bed. That leads to respiratory problems, and can be very damaging to the hooves. I would try to remove some of the wet shavings if possible at least once a week, or make sure that enough bedding is added on top. Also, proper ventilation is essential with these types of beds. They can become very unhygienic if not managed well. Also, if the horse tends to be very restless or spends a lot of time in the stable, it tends to tram up the bed, making a mess and tramping manure into the bedding. Another problem is that by adding bedding , the whole thing becomes very deep, or high – (if you are using it on a conventional cement floor) especially if it is not taken out every month or so. The shavings tend to compact and digging out the bed can be hard work.
Another common problem if this type of bedding is used with wooden stables, is that the compacted bedding starts to heat and will rot the wood. This must be prevented by applying a good sealant and preserver to the bottom part of the stall in contact with the bedding, before adding the bedding.

How Many Plaits

Question:

Is there anyone who knows the showing rules concerning plaiting of horses for shows. We are doing priamry school shows. How many plaites must a horse have for Performance riding? Some people say only 12, and others say any amount, as long as it is an uneven number. Can someone help us?

Answer:

Great question! There are no set rules about plaiting, however there are a few ‘tricks’ that you can use to make sure that your horse looks his best as well as a number of traditions that everyone sticks to! (Those annoying ‘unwritten’ rules of showing!)

What you are aiming for is a ‘combined effect’ – in other words, your tack, turnout and preparation should all be focused in the entire picture you are presenting at the show. That is very important, because simply by paying attention to all the detail, you will present much better at the show, and with showing – God really is in the details!

Traditionally, plaits are done on the right side of the horse and there should be an uneven number of plaits, so that with the forelock plait you get an even number of plaits. (9 or 11 plaits along the neck are the ideal, but every horse is different)What you will need to decide is how you are going to do those plaits. For example, if your horse is a little lacking in topline, you might want to raise the plaits slightly, which creates the illusion of a little more height on the front end. You would also do that if your horse is a little croup high. (common in young horses that are still growing!) The type of mane your horse has will also dictate the kind of plaits you might have to end up with. It is important to start off with a good base – in other words, a clean mane, evenly pulled to a length of about 15 cm (depending on the size of your horse!) and remember not to use any conditioner or mane spray before you start plaiting – it will make the hair very slippery! Ideally, I wash the mane at least a day or two in advance (and keep the horse out of mud and dirt!) which makes it even easier to plait on the day. If you want to cut a small bridle path, do so, and if your horse has a very long neck, a slightly longer bridle path will create the illusion of a shorter neck. (slightly! Not cm’s please!)

Plaits that are sewn in are generally tidier than those plaited with elastics, so I would recommend that you sew them in.

You can simply do a plain plait down the forelock (as opposed to a French plait) and sew it up – especially if your horse is a bit fidgety. If it is done neatly on a good forelock, it will present as well.

Tails should be trimmed to below the hocks – remember to lift your horse’s tail before you trim so that the line is level and the tail looks good! I would use a clipper to trim the tail, as it gives a neater finish than a pair of scissors. Tails also need to be plaited and sewn up.

Performance classes are not as strict as tack and turnout classes, for example, however by presenting really well, you immediately draw the judge’s eye and show them how proud you are of your horse!

Don’t forget your other things like trimming excess hair on the legs and face, trimming the ears and ensuring your tack is SPOTLESS and shiny and shows off your horse’s best features.

Good luck and enjoy your show! The judges are really nice and if there is time, they are always happy to give advice at the end of the class. Also, study the riders who do well and see what they are doing differently to you to try and improve.

Feeding Oil

My horse receives 1/2 cup sunflower oil 2 x day & 30ml Omega Oil 1 x day in his feed. He is a heavy sweater and I have to be quite careful if it is very hot. Someone just told me that oil can be 'heating' and that they don't feed it in summer as their horses sweat too much. Is this true? I feed the oil for a variety of reasons, mainly being on the advice of my vet as he is prone to mild impactions and constipation and the oil helps the passage of the food so I really don't want to stop feeding it if possible. However I also think that the sweating can add to the colic issue as he dehydrates very quickly and doesn't drink enough water.

Answer:

The oil you are feeding your horse is fine and is unrelated to his sweating problem. By 'heating' people usually mean that it makes the horse very energetic and full of spark, but oil is not as heating as many of the grains that are commonly fed. Oil can be fed right through the year, and it does not cause sweating.
What does concern me is your horse's excessive sweating and colic issues. I would have your vet do a thorough work up of your horse to determine the reason for the excess sweating. It is vital that you provide your horse with a salt lick at all times, as well as an unlimited fresh supply of water. If the sweating is very bad, you might have to give your horse electrolyte supplementation, however this you will have to discuss with your vet.
Keep feeding the oils, but have your horse checked out by the Vet please, adn get a second opinion if you must.

Response:

Thanks Renee I do give him electrolytes now in anticipation of hard work, like when we are going to shows, and 1 or 2 x a week anyway. Funnily enough he has for about 6 weeks been given regular Bemer blanket treatments (to assist in healing a puncture wound) and apart from him feeling so good following them that he has been bucking all over the place his sweating has reduced significantly, even following really hectic workouts (trying to cure bucking issue). He still sweats slightly more than your average horse but no where near as much as before.

Response:

How interesting - this sounds like some kind of pain response to me! In fact, it almost would seem like a low grade azoturia that your horse might be suffering from. One of the side effects of that would be sore muscles, especially along the back and hindquarters which would result in him being uncomfortable when you ride hence the bucking. The Bemer blanket treatments work well on back pain and azoturia, which may be what is causing the improvement.
I would seriously have your vet take a look at him, and possibly do the blood tests for Azoturia when he has another sweating episode or at least do a thorough back exam and check his muscles for pain.
Failing that, I would also have him looked at by a physiotherapist or Acupuncturist.
Let us know how he goes!


Respoonse:

Been down that road! Vet passed him 100% and the bucking doesn't just occur when I am riding him, it happens on the lunge, in the paddock, he has even been bucking in his stable. I have had numerous experts have a look and they all say the bucking is not a pain reflex, he just looks incredibly fresh and pleased with himself. He literally can't help himself, it's very cute. He is all bright eyed and bushy tailed. Luckily he doesn't have a lethal buck, it is more a happy thing. Problem is when you are trying to interest him in focusing on your imminent dressage test, happy can be problematic! I think you are correct with the low grade azutoria thing, or it being at least related to his circulatory system, though. He has always been a lazy, non forward moving horse until these intensive Bemer treatments, but not anymore. He raced for a very long time so goodness knows what went into his system, but I definitely think we have got to the end of the road, after a year. I think that I am going to keep up with regular Bemer sessions and have now dropped him onto a 10% food as opposed to 12%. Thanks for putting my mind at rest on the oil issue.

First Showing Show

Question:

Hi all, i was really hoping someone could give me the best advise when it comes to In-Hand Showing. I have entered me first showing show this week coming and i need all the help and advise i can get... What tack to be used for in-hand classes, what should i wear, what will be expected of me once i enter the ring, etc... all advise will be greatly appreciated.. happy horsing everyone...

Answer:


The first thing I would suggest is that you go onto the SANEF website and read through the showing rules and regulations. They also have a very nice description of what happens in each class and what to expect. (http://www.horsesport.org.za/disciplines/showing/2007%20Showing%20Rules.pdf)
The judges are usually very nice too and will explain everything to you as the class progresses.
In terms of tack, you will need to show him in his bridle, as per the showing rules. All the rules of turnout also apply, so plaits, polish and a neatly trimmed horse are a must.
You can also read up my article on showing on my blog, http://www.encyclopediaequestria.blogspot.com/ where you will also find a nice picture of an in-hand class. (The art of showing - posted May 2007) One thing I did not explain there was trimming the tail - you lift it up and trim to about the length of a hand or two below the hocks with a clipper, depends on the horse - scissors are a bit choppy. And also use the clippers to remove excess hair from the legs and feet.
If you still have questions after that, please do go ahead and feel free to ask! The most important thing I can tell you is to enjoy yourself, use this first show as a learning experience and check out as much as possible. Observer the winners of the classes and see what it is that they did that looked good.
Let me know if you need any more advice!

Feeding in Winter

Question:

I am a complete novice and I am wondering if my Big Baby is getting enough food in the winter. he gets 2 scoops of concentrate in the evening and 1 scoop in the morning. he has grass available in the paddock and gets erograttis or whatever mixed with teff when he comes into the stable. his weight remains constant. I supplement him with probiotics which I bring to the stable evey afternoon. I also give him Omega 3 & 6. Is this enough for him in the winter. I am concerned.

Answer:


The best way to judge whether your horse is getting the right sort of feed is really to just look at him! Does his coat shine and is it a healthy looking coat? Does he have lots of energy and sparkle? Is his weight constant and non-fluctuating? Are you feeding the best quality roughage and other food that you can?
The answers to these questions will tell you plenty about how your feeding regime is affecting your horse. During winter, the quality of roughage can get a little poorer, but if your horse maintains his weight, he is fine. If he does lose a little weight, you can supplement with extra calories - firstly, and most importantly, feed more roughage. You can also feed a small slice of lucerne in the evenings or supplement with extra oil or sugar beet. Those types of things will increase the caloires in his daily ration without resorting to increasing his concetrate feed. Remember to make any changes very slowly over time, to give his digestive system time to adapt! In winter, horses will also burn extra calories staying warm if they are exposed to the elements - especially of they are wet. Horses can handle cold rather well, but wet, windy cold is something that will drop condition and probably have him unhappy too. Make sure there are no cold draughts blowing throught the stable at night, use a warm rug at night and turn him out with a day sheet when the weather gets chilly and windy. This will help keep him warm and he will burn less calories. If the weather is 25 out and the sun is shining, please, don't keep the rug on! He will overheat and sweat and lose condition anyway!
I hope this helps you - it sounds like your horse should be fine! He sounds like he is getting everything he should. Make sure he has access to a salt lick, and if you want, provide him with a vitamin and mineral lick too. That way he has access to it if his body tells him he needs it.
Thanks for a great question!